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The festive season has stretched on for almost all of January! My gorgeous son Nick and his delicious girlfriend Mimi arrived in Australia and have been staying with us along with Mimi’s mum Josephine and stepfather Phillip, who’s an old friend of mine from Guyana. So it’s been huge fun to catch up and show them around. Nick, in his modest way, also happened to mention that ah, by the way, he’s just successfully submitted a Ph.D in Buddhist Studies and Asian Art History at the University of California, Los Angeles. Halleluiah! Even if he wasn’t my son I find him such an interesting person, as well as being fun, calm and intelligent. Nick says living in both India and Pakistan for many years inspired his curiosity to explore the cultural, religious and historical heritage of South Asia. Nick chose to study the inadequately understood but spectacular World Heritage Site of the Buddhist Caves at Ajanta in Maharashtra, India.
Originally dating to the first century BCE, the caves were hidden deep in a picturesque gorge and by the fifth century CE at least 29 caves had been excavated at the site, each gloriously painted with murals depicting the many lives of the Buddha. This art at Ajanta represents the oldest and finest extant examples of Indian painting. Their very existence, somewhat ironically, can be attributed only to the fact that after the fifth century the site was apparently totally abandoned, for reasons historians can only guess. Several caves at the site, for example, are preserved in such an incomplete state that it’s as if the workmen downed tools and walked away. Consequently these stunning caves lay hidden for more than a thousand years until a British Calvary officer out hunting followed a tiger into the gorge and spotted the ornate carvings around the entrance to a cave high above. Imagine how he felt discovering this treasure. It’s believed monks and other wanderers sought out the site for meditation but through the centuries no-one else knew of the caves. The artwork and sculpture is utterly stunning.
Nick took me there a number of years ago and it was then I realized we had crossed some threshold and he was the teacher and I the student. The travel and living was rustic to say the least but with Nick’s fascinating, wonderfully eccentric and brilliant professor it was a memorable time. In the basic government accommodation we ate hot curry, talked to the local and thanks to the professor’s ancient record player were entertained by Mozart and discussed the life and times of a civilization we can only wonder at. It’s now an Indian tourist destination and there are regulations, officials and roped off areas. I cherish the memories of being there with my son, the bats and ghosts of an ancient civilization.
Cheers
Di’s latest book The Islands, published by Pan Macmillan, is now on sale.
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