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Still on our break, after the magic of the wetlands of Kakadu National Park we traveled through open country surrounded by rocky escarpments and into cattle country. We stayed with a great family at Mount Bundy station homestead, yet another young family making a massive tree change from Broome Hill in Western Australia. From the tiny township of Adelaide River with its wonderful preserved railway station and museum we made forays into Litchfield National Park. We loved swimming in Florence and Wangi Falls but were disappointed the creek was flooded and the road inaccessible for even 4WD vehicles so we couldn’t get to the Lost City. This is an eerie cluster of massive weirdly-shaped termite mounds and sandstone outcrops weathered and sculptured so it looks like ancient remains of some lost civilisation. There was less obvious wildlife to be seen – we’ve had our fill of close encounters with crocs, thanks – though I saw a photo at Bundy of a nineteen foot python dragging a drowned wallaby out of Wangi Falls. Back in Darwin I spent time in the Northern Territory Archives. The staff were so helpful and I could have spent weeks pouring over the old journals, maps and letters written by those first intrepid adventurers. To slip on the white gloves in an air conditioned room and turn the pages written in a fine hand, or later in the early years of the 20th century, typed accounts, of their travels was riveting. Especially when we had just so easily and comfortably traversed the same landscape they’d struggled through on foot and horseback.
It’s a shame but I simply don’t feel safe or comfortable throwing down the swag by a billabong anymore. On a remote and deserted back road out of Pine Creek we followed a creek (trying to fish for barra) and came across a vehicle hidden in the undergrowth with a canvas back, shovel, gun and rude stickers that put us in mind of the same truck used by Bradley Murdoch in the Falconio murder. We did not hang around. No wonder a lot of travelers stick together and camp at designated sites.
But there is no doubt about it, the outback’s natural wonders are stunning and hopefully will remain protected and cared for rather than mined.
It’s an horrendous tick season due to the humid weather. My book editor lost her beloved old cat and friends’ dogs are in the vet recovering from paralysis ticks. Check your dog or cat at least once every day!
Cheers
Di is Australia's number one bestselling female author. Her new book "The Islands", published by Pan Macmillan goes on sale in November.
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