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We are twirling through the Top End of the Northern Territory feeling far removed from the greed of Wall Street as we watch the shadows of Magpie Geese dance across a waterlily-filled billabong. World Heritage Kakadu National Park is brilliantly cared for by the National Parks and traditional owners. It’s got more tourist-friendly walks, tours and organized activities compared to the old days when travelers pitched their tents where they liked and launched their boats anywhere to fish. There are now rules, permits required, signs and regulations but as more foreign visitors come to the Park these are needed. An indigenous Park Ranger told us several foreigners turned up to swim (!) in the croc infested East Alligator River near the notorious Cahills Crossing where a man was taken by a croc some time back. (It was named after famous old buffalo shooter, Paddy Cahill.)The foreign tourists wouldn’t believe it was unsafe despite the Achtung! sign with a large jawed croc. They became quite abusive until police were called. In our first five minutes on the river we saw several massive crocodiles. Fortunately the crocs didn’t show any interest in our barramundi though “jumping crocs” are becoming a nuisance and have been known to leap into a boat. Boris caught a 75 centimetre barra ( have to be over 55cms to keep) plus several others which were swiftly released after a photo. They’re great sport fishing but in an open tin boat in 40 degree heat and high humidity due to the “build up” before the November wet season, I was ready to fall in the river, crocs and all.
Darwin is not the town it used to be, very little of the wild old Darwin remains. Mining money means luxurious high rise apartments (16 floors and above) and fancy restaurants ($60 for a mud crab! Can buy them in a bag from a local for ten bucks), new developments and buildings are sprouting like mushrooms after rain. A laconic local wasn’t too upset about all this as he reckons the lot will all come down in the next cyclone.
Went fishing on Darwin Harbour which used to be fairly good. Brad, our skipper, left Lismore in NSW four years ago as he couldn’t stand the cold. He told us the Japanese are now calling the shots in Darwin. Huge tankers from the off shore rigs filled with dense gas worth 16 million dollars were ready to sail to Japan where the gas from each tanker would last a mere four hours. Brad also told us if one of them went up or sank it’d blow away half of Darwin. He said a Japanese salvage group had taken the scrap metal from all the warships and planes sunk in Darwin Harbour (by the Japanese in WW11.) We didn’t get a bite but hooked a condom, a bladder from a wine cask and a plastic bag.
Civilisation ain’t all it’s cracked up to be. Give me a billabong full of crocs anyday!
Cheers
Di is Australia's number one bestselling female author. Her new book "The Islands", published by Pan Macmillan goes on sale in November.
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